The Gaze of Buddha’s Eyes
On the Eastern edge of Kathmandu, an entrancing medieval city overwhelmed by the weight of the modern world and consumed by pollution, noise and dust, is the lovely area of Boudha. At the center of Boudha is the Boudhanath Stupa, the largest and holiest of Tibetan Temples outside of Tibet.
When staying in Boudha, as often as possible, I rise early to join with the resident Tibetans and Nepalese in the Kora walk around the Stupa. Prayer wheels surrounding the stupa are turned clockwise by those circumambulating, continually releasing prayers of compassion, OM MANI PEME HUNG into the atmosphere. There is a soft murmur of the recitation of the mantra.
As I fall into step with the flow of humanity, there is an awareness that this practice of Kora around this Stupa has been happening every morning and every evening since it’s creation sometime in the 14th century. The population of Tibetans dramatically increased in 1959 as Tibetans fled their beloved homeland due to the Chinese government occupation.
The Stupa was damaged from last year’s earthquake in April. Reconstruction is now complete. The video is one moment of the many ceremonies consecrating and blessing the reconstruction. It is easy to imagine the profound joy and relief that the Buddha Eyes of Boudhanath Stupa are once again gazing upon us.